Suffolk’s five estuaries have protected the east of Suffolk from the ravages of the motorway, thus ensuring that it remains a relatively peaceful and unspoilt coastline despite its close proximity to London. Each estuary has its own unique quality and singular charm.

A particular favourite is the Deben Estuary. Protected by a raft of national and international conservation designations what was true for W.G. Arnott in his book Suffolk Estuary (1950) remains true even today:

“ wooded banks… sandy beaches and dry landing-places… gentle sloping cornfields and lush green marshes, it has no other river to compare with it.”

There are very few public access roads down to the waterside, but it is never more than a couple of miles from the road and the walk down sandy tracks or across gently undulating heath land is well worth while, for, once reached, the estuary opens up before your eyes framed by sandy beaches, wooded cliffs and purple heaths.

There is almost no commercial traffic on the Deben, although you might be lucky enough to see the occasional Thames barge, its blood red sails lifting in the coastal breeze, and the majority of pleasure craft are sail powered and therefore noiseless.

But this isn’t an estuary for the novice to sail in, at least not if you are entering from the sea. Yachts and dinghies have to navigate around a large sand bank just off Felixstowe Ferry before enjoying the breathtaking view of the broad estuary ahead.

Felixstowe Ferry is on the south bank of the Deben, its cottages and fishing huts overlooking the sea, the estuary entrance and Felixstowe’s lovely heath land golf course. It is a fascinating little hamlet, its beach littered with fishing boats and dinghies. There are two good pubs, The Victoria and The Ferry Boat Inn, both making good use of the excellent fresh fish, caught daily off the coast and sold to the public from The Shed, a fresh fish stall standing amongst the upturned boats and fishermen’s huts on the beach. Felixstowe Ferry Sailing Club is a popular club both with local sailors and for those wanting some exciting racing. There is also a water ski school, offering courses throughout the summer.

And if you want to find out about the favoured pastime for children from four to forty just take a look at the quay. Strewn with buckets, lines and hooks and a host of onlookers, is one of the oldest and most enticing pleasures of the long summer holidays - crab fishing. For luxury accommodation in Felixstowe Ferry Fairhaven and Bala Cottage

Bawdsey Quay
Just a short ferry ride will take you across the Deben to Bawdsey Quay. There is a ferry service throughout the summer. If the ferryman isn’t there then raise the bat and wave it and he will be with you shortly or drop in at the boatyard from where the ferry is operated.

Another small hamlet, there are lovely cottages 5 Ferry Road and Quay Cottage of Bawdsey Quay enjoy spectacular views over the sea, the little sandy beach and up river towards Ramsholt.

Strategically important in World War II, radar was developed at Bawdsey, its buildings now open to the public; contact info@bawdseyradargroup.co.uk

Above the quay stands Bawdsey Manor, its wooded grounds hiding the Gothic façade of the mansion. The property was built in the 1890s for Sir Cuthbert Quilter.

Beside the quay is Bawdsey sailing school running week-long sailing courses throughout the summer. There is also a lovely little sandy beach, a great place for youngsters to play and paddle.

A narrow road travels beside the estuary to Bawdsey village from where one can turn right to East Lane (stay at East Lane Cottage) and back to the sea where there are some war time defence bunkers and a Martello tower, one of five built on the coast between Felixstowe and Aldeburgh, as defence bastions during the Napoleonic wars. A pleasant walk takes you along the headland - part of the Suffolk Coast and Heaths Path - from where you can look out across the shingle bank towards Shingle Street and Orford in the distance.

To return to the river by car one must first pass through Alderton and then on to Ramsholt with its riverside pub The Ramsholt Arms. From here there are fantastic views over the quay and another sandy beach towards the grazing marshes, the sea and the sheltered wooded slopes, shallow cliffs and sandy beaches which contribute so much to the beauty of the Deben Estuary. Here, as everywhere along the Deben, you will see many wading birds and wildfowl.

Walking along from Ramsholt one can eventually see Waldringfield on the far bank, a delightful little village, with a waterfront little changed in fifty years and another waterside pub, the Maybush Inn, which, like The Ramsholt Arms, has gardens overlooking the quay and boatyard. Up on the cliff which overlooks the yacht moorings, sits Waldringfield Sailing Club, a popular venue for dinghy racing.

For those looking for a more restful appraisal of the estuary Deben Cruises runs river cruises aboard the MV Jahan, which can include lunch or tea. Cruises run from May to September - you do have to book.

Back on the north shore the road takes you through Sutton, beyond which are acres and acres of lowland heath, home to the woodlark, the yellow hammer and nightjar and heards of deer. Brightened by the yellow gorse and the purple heather the heaths are well worth walking.

Sutton Hoo, the famous Anglo Saxon burial ground is on the road to Woodbridge, and from here you can see stunning views of the Deben Estuary and the ancient market town of Woodbridge on the far shore.