A Walk around Orford.

Without doubt a really delightful and fascinating village, Orford has retained almost all its historic charm, despite its failing fortunes over the centuries and some not terribly attractive house building over the last twenty years.

Excellent restaurants, a good choice of pubs and shops selling superb Suffolk fare; you could easily enjoy a week’s self catering here and never have to use the car. Framed by Suffolk’s skies, the village of Orford can be pinpointed from miles around, the castle keep and church tower being landmarks for sailors since the 12th century.

Whatever your interests a stroll around the village is a must. There is a really good sized car park down by the quay so it is from here that we begin our walk. Turn left out of the car park over the hump in the road to the quay. Do have a look at The Loft, a penthouse with wonderful views of the water as you pass.

Looking across the estuary, known as the Ore (it is called the Alde elsewhere), you will see Orford Ness, the largest vegetated shingle spit in Europe with the lighthouse in the distance. The waters around the Ness are notoriously dangerous. During a great storm in 1627 thirty two ships were wrecked off Orford Ness, a statistic which led to the construction of the first lighthouse. At one time there was also a beach-launched lifeboat, a Revenue cutter and later a Coastguard lookout. Many of you will have heard the tales of Suffolk smugglers and it was the duty of the Revenue Men to lie in wait for the smugglers’ boats.

Looking up the Ore towards Aldeburgh, take a left turn along the river bank – there are steps up to the river wall – towards Orford Sailing Club. These river embankments not only protect the village against high tides, but provide a great vantage point over the river. In the distance is the World Service wireless station and masts on Lantarn Marshes. The path follows the riverbank for about half a mile until you reach a footpath to the left taking you back along a track past a disused pit towards the village coming out into Daphne Road.

In Daphne Road, turn left again and then right into Burnt Lane – not the scene of a tragic fire but once the home of a brick makers from where you might have once seen the smoke rising from the furnace chimney. At the top of Burnt Lane is the High Street; don’t be fooled by the name for this is a High Street unlike any other. Whilst there is evidence that some of the houses were once shops there is no commerce to be seen here today. Orford was a borough until 1886 being represented by two members in Parliament; the subsidy rolls of 1327 show a population well in excess of 1,000. Look to the right where there is a delightful little grassed area surrounded by 18th and 19th century workman’s cottages. Turn left along the High Street to the church.

The original church was built in the 12th century, a series of ruined chancel arcades is all that remains. The church has been much restored in recent years and is well worth viewing – do have a look at the Noyes Fludde (Noah’s Flood) sculpture and the delightful font.

Coming out of the church, turn left across the church yard; the 16th century Kings Head Pub is on your right if you do feel like pausing for a refreshing pint of Adnams and beyond that is a craft shop – great wicker baskets – the owner is a keen diver who has been involved in diving off the Suffolk coast for many years recovering some fascinating treasures both off Orford and further north at Dunwich.

Across the road from the church yard is the Market Square with the famous Butley Orford Oysterage on your left and the Crown and Castle Hotel with its fine Trinity restaurant ahead of you. Over to the right is the village shop and beyond that a wonderful ‘Suffolk Collection’ holiday cottage The Pump House

Walk across the square and then follow the road beside the Crown and Castle down to Orford Castle – a strangely fascinating castle keep set among its former defence mounds; and historic landmark for ships using the waters off the Suffolk coast. Opposite the castle you will find Pump Cottage

From the castle you can either continue down the road to Broad Street, passing The Chantry Barns and thence right down to Quay Street with its pretty village green and Ruffles Cottage and Cottage on the Green. Beyond the Green is the quay.

Alternatively you might like to take the footpath across the castle fields and venture out of the village a little way to the southwest. The path takes you past another disused pit, full of birdsong in spring and summer, and across a series of fields before taking a left down to the Gedgrave Road. Once again you can walk back along this quiet country lane to the town or follow the road for a couple of hundred yards before taking the footpath to your right which takes you across the marshes and onto the sea wall to the south of Orford.

From here you will have marvellous views down river towards the RSPB reserve at Havergate Island (again reached by boat from the quay) and the Butley River where Orford’s famous oysters are harvested. The views here are ever-changing, the true glory of the Suffolk skies clearly evident. The winter winds can be cutting, but it is worth dressing accordingly for there is always something of fascination to see whether it be the over-wintering geese, or oystercatchers, tern or dunlin on the foreshore. In winter you may see seals, in summer fluttering dinghy sails and smart yachts.

Passing Quay View there is a wooden shelter, here you can sit and watch life on the quay before buying some fresh fish from the hut or smoked fish, ham or cheese from the two smokeries in the Market Square. You might also want to enjoy a well-deserved meal in one of Orford’s great pubs or restaurants.